COUTURE'S GOLDEN AGE

The launch of Dior's New Look in 1947 marked the beginning of a momentous decade in fashion history and of haute couture's last great gasp. Framed between the austerity of the war and the rise of youth culture, Dior dubbed the years between 1947-1957 “the Golden Age”.

In Paris, couture houses such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Fath attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. London was renowned for formal state gowns by court dressmakers and impeccable tailoring by designers like Hardy Amies.

Image: Evening dress by Cristóbal Balenciaga, about 1955, Paris, France. Museum no. T.427-1967. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The production of couture was important to the prestige and economy of both France and Britain. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, the couture houses also sought new markets. As the decade progressed, they created perfumes, opened boutiques and licensed their designs to foreign manufacturers. By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses had become global brands.

Dior's death in 1957 brought this golden age to an end. With the changing social and economic climate fashion moved from the fitting rooms and ateliers into the streets and boutiques. Yet its legacy of artistry and craftmanship survives in the remaining grand houses of Paris and the bespoke workshops of Savile Row.

In 1939, there were seventy registered couture houses in Paris, including the grand establishments of Chanel, Schiaparelli and Balenciaga. This flourishing industry was disrupted by the wartime occupation of Paris. Private clients dispersed, international sales almost ceased and many couturiers closed. The Germans planned to move couture to Berlin but Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, objected, saying, "It is in Paris or it is nowhere".

Image: Christian Dior with model Sylvia, circa 1948. Courtesy of Christian Dior and V&A

The ‘New Look’

Dior launched his couture house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. His voluptuous collection was the antithesis of masculine wartime fashions. Instead, the designs featured sloping shoulders, a full bust and a cinched-in waist above full, long skirts. It was christened on the spot by Carmel Snow, editor of American Harper's Bazaar, as the 'New Look'. London couturier John Cavanagh described the style as 'a total glorification of the female form'.

Image: Christian Dior (1905–57), Bar Suit, Christian Dior Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1947, Corolle Line. Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The amount of fabric required to create a New Look garment caused outrage in London, as rationing was still in place. The collection was shown in secret to Queen Elizabeth II and other members of the royal family at the French Embassy in London. Although initially condemned by the British Board of Trade, the New Look gained widespread popularity, particularly after Princess Margaret adopted it, attracted by its femininity and youth.

With thanks to the V&A Museum where this article was originally published: The Golden Age of Couture

--

Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and more — we're delighted that Thames and Hudson have given us a full set of their bestselling Catwalk series for our Issue 104 Keeping Warm prize draw.

Each high-end, cloth-bound volume in the bestselling Catwalk series features over 1,000 looks as they originally appeared on the catwalk, styled as the designer intended, and sported by the world’s top models. These treasure troves of inspiration are must-have references for all fashion fans and professionals.

We have one entire set of the Catwalk series to give away, 7 cloth-bound volumes worth £385.

Enter to win on of the prizes via the prize draw link in our weekly newsletter (subscribe at the bottom of this page) or your purchase order confirmation. If you are a magazine subscriber you can find the link to enter here.