EMBROIDERIES FROM PARADISE ON EARTH

Image courtesy of Tubruk

“Embroidery has a long history in Kashmir. It is deeply linked with the traditions and culture of Kashmir that is often called `Paradise on Earth’ for its scenic beauty”, says Inshada Bashir Mir, an enterprising young artisan, designer and entrepreneur based in Hanjiwara, Baramulla district, Kashmir Valley, Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir located in the northernmost region of India. She is the founder of, Tubruk, which means blessings in Kashmiri. The brand works with artisans to create a range of hand embroidered products.

Three main embroidery techniques are indigenous to Kashmir. They are aari embroidery that features chain stitch, worked using the aar (a fine awl akin to the European tambour hook); sozni embroidery that features different stitches, predominantly stem and satin stitches, worked with a fine needle and fine yarns; and tilla embroidery in which metal yarn is carefully placed as per the motif and then held in place by minute stitches of cotton thread.


Image courtesy of Tubruk

Inshada collaborates with artisans to have stoles, shawls, saris, pherans (long tops), jewellery, bags pocket squares, cushion covers, lamp shades and other products embroidered in these three embroidery styles. The products are of different natural fibre fabrics including soft pashmina textiles. She says broadly sozni embroidery is worked on luxurious textiles like fine pashminas and tilla embroidery on festive and occasion wear.

The embroidery features traditional and contemporary designs inspired by local culture like a series on birds and flowers of Kashmir, and carved wooden windows and ceilings of local architecture.


Image courtesy of Tubruk

Digitally savvy, and having picked up the nuances of running a business during a course in Craft Management and Entrepreneurship from Craft Development Institute, Srinagar, Inshada is quick to respond to queries and grasp requirements of clients and work on customised textiles. She designed and created a unique sozni embroidered stole featuring a silicon - transistor design for Karan Gill, an engineer and textile enthusiast based in New York City, who was keen on a textile that featured fundamental concepts symbolising the advent of computers.

“Craft is the second largest employer after agriculture in Kashmir. My aim is to preserve the beautiful traditional hand embroidery techniques of Kashmir; to offer authentic, quality embroidered textiles to customers; and to provide livelihoods to local artisans as senior artisans are not keen on having their children take up embroidery due to lack of recognition and appreciation for it. I believe a hand embroidered textile has the touch of an artisan and culture, and is truly special”.