Selvedge Textile Tour 2025: Week 5

This week, the Selvedge Textile Tour of India continued to reveal the intricate beauty of textiles. In Ramananga, the soft rustle of silkworms feeding on mulberry leaves signalled the start of a delicate process, laying the foundation for the silk to come. In Kolkata, the flower market unfolded beneath the Howrah Bridge, a vivid mix of colour and scent that stirred the senses. Each stop brought a blend of quiet moments and lively exchanges, where tradition and craft wove together seamlessly. As the group moved through these spaces, textiles spoke of stories, memories, and connections passed down through time. It was a week that delved beyond the landscapes, offering a deeper connection to the essence of India’s textile heritage.

Read on to join us in this weeks journey.

A Visit to a Sericulture Farm

In the lush green fields of Ramananga, the group stood among rows of thriving Mulberry trees with Mr. Bettarangaiah. What appeared to be an ordinary plantation was, in fact, a vital feeding ground for silkworms.

As they drew closer, the group observed the wriggling silkworms eagerly munching on mulberry leaves, marking the beginning of the intricate silk production process.

The Government Cocoon Market, Ramanagara

The bustling market halls of Ramanagara serve as a vibrant hub for cocoon farmers and silk producers. Here, sericulture farmers bring their cocoons, weighing them in large plastic trays, ready to be sold by the kilogram.

Karnataka, which produces 63% of India’s silk fabric, relies on a steady supply of cocoons to fuel this vital industry. Each lot, weighing between 20 to 60 kg, is meticulously examined by registered reelers, who place bids on the entire batch.

To read more about the silk market visited by the Selvedge Textile Tour group, head to the article ‘A Hive of Activity’ in Selvedge Issue 122, Winter White.

Danny Mehra’s Rugs

In Bengaluru, the group marvelled at Danny Mehra’s extensive collection of rugs, accumulated over years of travel along the Silk Route. What began as a wedding gift from his mother-in-law - a single carpet - has grown into a 1500-piece collection.

 Mehra’s rare tribal carpets, many woven by nomadic women in Central Asia and the Caucasus, feature spontaneous designs, rich dyes, and exceptional wool. Drawn to their raw, imperfect charm, Mehra affectionately calls his collection “a mad assortment of wonderfully happy weavings.”

Bappaditya Biswas Studio and a Demonstration on Mordant Painting

The Selvedge Textile Tour visited Bappaditya Biswas’s studio in Kolkata, known for Bai Lou and the Byloom store. During the pandemic, Biswas reignited his passion for hand-painted textiles, crafting chintz designs inspired by historical Mughal paintings, Asian art, and William Morris.

The process begins with handwoven cotton-linen fabric, on which intricate motifs are drawn by hand. Various natural mordants like alum are applied to fix dyes made from madder, marigold, henna, hibiscus, indigo, and cutch, with each colour requiring a separate application of mordant and dye, resulting in vibrant, multi-layered textiles.

Read more about Bappaditya and his work in our Selvedge Story from 17 March 2025.

Textiles of Bengal: A Shared Legacy

The next stop was the Kolkata Centre for Creativity, where Darshan Shah, founder of Weavers Studio, led a tour of an exhibition exploring Bengal’s rich textile history. The collection, presented by the Weavers Studio Resource Centre (WSRC), spans five centuries and highlights the diverse traditions of Bengal’s textiles - featuring Kantha, Chintzes, Chikankari, and more.

The exhibition takes visitors beyond the well-known Jamdani, Kantha, and Baluchari to reveal a wider array of textiles, including the decorative Santipuri, Tangail, and Dhonekhali saris.

Hooghly River Cruise, Kolkata

A boat ride along the Hooghly River offered a unique perspective of life along the banks of Kolkata. The passengers observed daily activities such as bathing, fishing, and laundry, with waves exchanged between boats on the water. The Hooghly River is the westernmost distributary of the Ganges, flowing through West Bengal, India. In its upper reaches, the river is known as the Bhāgirathi until it reaches the Hooghly.

The name Bhāgirathi derives from the Hindu mythological prince Bhagiratha, who is said to have brought the Ganges from heaven to earth in order to release his 60,000 grand-uncles from a curse placed by the saint Kapila. Like the Ganges itself, the Bhāgirathi-Hooghly is considered sacred by Hindus, and its water is regarded as holy.

The Flower Market, Kolkata

No trip to Kolkata is complete without a visit to the Malik Ghat Flower Market, the largest in eastern India and over 125 years old. The tour group found themselves immersed in the vibrant chaos of flower vendors and towering mounds of marigolds.

Nestled beneath the Howrah Bridge, the market is a sensory feast, bursting with colour, scent, and sound. Flowers spill from bags, blanket the ground, and overflow from makeshift stalls, while vendors barter with eager buyers. The sweet fragrance of fresh blooms fills the air, creating an unforgettable experience in the heart of Kolkata’s daily life.

India Museum Textile Gallery

At the India Museum’s Textile Gallery, visitors were greeted by a classic handloom and a collection of Bengal’s legendary muslin, as well as cabinets showcasing a variety of fibrous specimens, and dioramas depicting textile processes.

Although most textiles date back to the 19th century, the museum offers an extensive array from across India, preserved in remarkable condition. As India’s oldest and largest museum, the India Museum in Kolkata has been a cultural landmark since 1814, inspiring the establishment of over 400 museums across the country. It offers a fascinating glimpse into India’s rich artistic and scientific heritage.

As this week of the Selvedge Textile Tour of India draws to a close, the group found themselves not just witnessing the artistry of fabrics, but stepping into the rhythms of India’s soul. From the delicate beginnings of silk in Ramananga to the vibrant swirl of colour and fragrance at Kolkata's flower market, each moment has brought an unexpected discovery, weaving together a layered narrative of India’s rich textile heritage.

Join us again next week on Selvedge Stories, for the final instalment of the Selvedge India Textile Tour.

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Image Credits:

Lead image: Flower picker sorting marigolds in Madurai, India, for LilaNur Parfums.

Image of  Bappaditya Biswas: Rumi Biswas

All other images courtesy of Polly Leonard