Taking Heart: A Valentines Archive Special

Today’s story is a love letter to a symbol that speaks to the strongest and most beautiful of emotions - the heart.

This simple yet powerful shape is synonymous with love in all its forms, and we’ve delved into our archives to bring you a passionate pictorial special celebrating its meaning.

Of course, the heart symbolises love—but not just the romantic kind. Love takes many shapes, and so too do the textiles and artistic expressions inspired by it.

From past publications and some of our favourite museum collections, we’ve gathered an eclectic mix of textile pieces that speak to matters of the heart in all their form. We hope they inspire you as much as they move us.

Happy Valentine’s Day.

Hand on Heart

Heart in Hand Hooked Rug, Mid 20th Century

From the archives of the American Folk Art Museum in New York, this wool-on-canvas rug was crafted in the USA by an unknown artist. The heart-in-hand symbol, originally used by the Odd Fellows to represent candour, sincerity, and openness, has since been embraced more widely as a symbol of affection. The Independent Order of Odd Fellows, the organisation behind it, is dedicated to fostering both personal and social growth—especially through acts of kindness and support for those in need.

At the Heart of the Matter

St. Valentines Patch Quilt, 1860-1880

Featured in Issue 38 of Selvedge Magazine, this striking red and white quilt is part of a collection of over 650 quilts of this colour combination, owned by private collector Joanna Rose. The Turkey red shade that is used refers to a bright cherry-red cotton, achieved through a complex dyeing process that originated in India and spread to the Levant. The method involved up to seventeen steps and initially took nearly twenty-five days to perfect. By the 1830s, Turkey red fabric was in high demand in the U.S., especially among quilt-makers who valued its vivid, colourfast quality. By 1840, red-and-white quilts had become a lasting trend.

The Heart Remembers

Wartime Pin Cushion, 1896

A passionate and affectionate token, made by a wounded soldier for his lover. Featured in Selvedge Issue 61, its shape symbolises love and remembrance, and the skilled handiwork demonstrates a tender dexterity. In the second half of the 19th century, recuperation for soldiers included encouragement to make objects from scrapped uniforms. This was both productive for rehabilitation, and served to discourage recovering soldiers from turning to drink, gambling and idleness. For the soldiers family waiting at home, this pincushion would have been a cherished keepsake of remembrance. 

From My Heart to Yours

Mola Blouse, 1975

This vibrant mola blouse from Central America was made for a young girl, featuring intricate appliqué work on orange cotton with a red panel at its centre. Originally inspired by traditional Kuna body painting, mola designs evolved to depict daily life, nature, and cultural symbols. The heart motif on this example suggests a piece made with deep affection—perhaps a gift from an elder to a beloved daughter or granddaughter. They are crafted using reverse appliqué, with some molas containing up to four layers and additional embroidered details, requiring hours of meticulous hand-sewing. A real labour of love, this piece can be viewed in the collection of the British Museum.

Home is Where the Heart Is

Dookrollen in the Linen Closet

As featured in Selvedge Issue 122, Dookrollen is a traditional Dutch method of rolling and tying linen, both for preservation and aesthetic appeal. Instead of folding, linens were carefully rolled into cylindrical shapes to prevent creases that could weaken the fibers and to protect them from dust in an era when textile cleaning was labor-intensive. Beyond its practicality, dookrollen holds symbolic meaning. The finest rolls form a heart at the centre, representing the union of two lovers, while rose shapes on either side symbolise love. Creating these intricate rolls, sometimes using up to ten pieces of unbleached linen, required two to four women and a long table, making it both a communal and artistic tradition. 

At the Heart of a Community

Centennial Quilt, 1876

The motifs on this quilt—facing birds, tulips, lilies, hearts, baskets, leaves, stars, and rosettes—are hallmarks of Pennsylvania German folk art. The archive team at the American Folk Art Museum has long debated its origins, and new information now confirms that it was made in Pennsylvania by Gertrude Knappenberger. A descendant of hers recognised the quilt from a photograph and shared that her great-great-grandmother was known in the family as a skilled quilt-maker. According to family records, Knappenberger would have been between 60 and 70 years old in 1876. This happened to be the year of the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition, for which she created the quilt as an expression of love for her community.

Across time and cultures, the heart has remained a powerful symbol of love, devotion, and connection. Through the textiles explored today - from intricate quilts to heartfelt pincushions - each piece tells a story of emotion stitched into fabric. Whether crafted as a personal token, a practical necessity, or an artistic expression, these works remind us that love is not just felt but made, shared, and preserved. As we celebrate Valentine’s Day, may these textiles inspire us to create and cherish our own expressions of love, woven into the fabric of our lives.