Warp and Weft

Online event, hosted on Zoom by Meghann O'Brien

The last leg of the virtual baton will be a two hour long exploration of weaving traditions from around the world. From industrial loom weaving with Daniel Harris to the four shaft loom of Eszter Révész and floor loom used by Shamji Siju; each with their own challenges, intricacies and specialities. It is know that to be a true weaver, it takes ten years of experience, some may say many more years are needed. Our speakers will share how they have mastered their craft. 

Brief outline of Programme:
Join in a conversation with respected traditional weavers and teachers from the Northwest Coast of BC. Tsamiianbaan (“Barnacles on the Belly of the Supernatural Being”), William White, is a house Chief, master weaver and teacher from the Tsimshian nation. A member of the Raven Clan of the Git-wil-gyoots (“The People of the Seaweed”), William began weaving in 1982 and for the past 30 years has travelled to promote and teach basketry, Yelth Koo, and Gwishalaayt weaving amongst the northern tribes on the coast. His work has been exhibited and collected internationally in Canada, USA, Europe, New Zealand, India and Australia, and is a part of the permanent collection at the Museum of Anthropology at UBC. 

L’hen Awtxw Weaving House was founded by Hereditary Chief Chepximiya Siyam’ Janice George and Skwetsimeltxw Willard ‘Buddy’ Joseph. Both are members of the Squamish Nation and are accomplished weavers and teachers dedicated to sharing the teachings and practice of traditional Coast Salish wool weaving. Their work has been featured as a part of Canada House at the 2010 Winter Olympics, at The Seattle Art Museum, Royal BC Museum, Evergreen State College, and the Portland Art Museum. In 2017 their book co-written with Leslie Tepper, ​​Salish Blankets: Robes of Protection and Transformation, Symbols of Wealth, was published. 

Northwest Coast weaving traditions are highly specific cultural art forms, and the work of these dedicated masters has contributed greatly to the strength and resurgence of ceremonial regalia in use by communities and the representation of culturally significant works internationally. 

Daniel Harris of London Cloth Company, England
The London Cloth Company first came into being when Daniel rescued a rusting loom from an old barn in rural Wales, naively thinking all else he’d need would be a small hand bobbin winder. With absolutely no training or prior knowledge of weaving, Daniel learnt as he went along. Fully dismantling and reassembling machines that hadn’t been touched for 30 years, he quickly taught himself all the intricacies of the different parts. A year later, Daniel had acquired two further looms, two pern winders and a warping mill. His collection of machinery has been growing ever since. 

Brief outline of the talk:
London Cloth Company

On a quiet street in Hackney, Daniel has created a weaving sensation. Starting with just one industrial loom, which he built back to working order, he is now selling to brands such as Ally Capellino, DAKS London and Ralph Lauren. He will share his experience of setting up an independent weaving studio in London and how the London Cloth Company is evolving.

Eszter Révész of Dreaming Threads, Hungary
Founded in 2019, Dreaming Threads is a Hungarian interior textile brand led by Eszter Révész, a Budapest based textile designer, university professor of MOME and entrepreneur. She aims to bring tradition back into our lives with her textiles.

Eszter designs and makes handwoven rugs with Hungarian folk motifs, in which she combines traditional techniques and motifs with a fresh design vision, individual raw materials and contemporary colours. Eszter constantly researches and collects motifs and inspirations from Hungarian folk textiles, which she uses in her designs. She weaves her 100% cotton rugs by hand on a large four shaft loom in her studio. It usually takes 4 or more days to make a rug. 

Brief outline of the talk:
Dreaming Threads

Eszter will speak to us about Hungarian folk motifs, her design process, techniques, materials and the weaving process.

Karma Tshoki of Yarn & Yathra House, Bhutan
Yarn & Yathra House weave their homewares and clothing collections from Yathra, a thick hand-woven wool with intricate traditional Bhutanese designs. This fabric emerged in response to the harsh cold of the long winter in an area of the country known as Bumthang, or the Bumthang Valley. People from this region used fleece from sheep, yaks and goats to create a thick piece of cloth to shelter themselves from the cold. Gradually people from all over Bhutan started using Yathra pieces for other things; as presents during special occasions or stitched into clothes to wear during dances at celebrations. In this way, Yathra has found a place as part of Bhutan's culture and economy.

Brief outline of the talk:
Yarn & Yathra House

Karma will share Bhutan's weaving traditions and the harsh environmental conditions that have been the source of many of the weaving developments she now uses in Yarn & Yathra's collections.

Inés Rodriguez of Ins RiR & Co Diseño Textil Artesanal, Spain
From a small rural area of ​​Galicia in the Villa de Allariz, Inés Rodríguez makes unique fabrics on her handloom. Her starting point is the traditional weaving techniques typical of the part of Spain where she lives and works. Rodríguez collects old pieces, analysing them to find out how they were made and what fibres and techniques were used. In her own weaving she mostly uses Galician techniques such as the ‘gorullo’ which is a plain weave that uses a rod to make loops that stand proud from the fabric. Her designs reflect the rural world and the culture of Galicia, while introducing a softness intended to give pleasure to the person who uses one of her cushions or blankets.

Brief outline of the talk:
Ins RiR & Co Diseño Textil Artesanal

Inés will speak about the little known weaving traditions of Galicia and how they inform her own weaving practice. 

Shamji Siju of Vankar Vishram Valji, India
A hub for weaving and dyeing, Vankar Vishram Valji Weaving is one of the most beloved spots to observe India’s artisanal history and talent. Led by the master weaver, Vankar Shamji Vishram, it has become one of the most successful centers, with his artistry used all over India. Started by his father, Vishram learned the ropes of weaving and dyeing by spending time at his father’s production unit. Thriving in the landscape of Kachchh, he has put together 60 families of weavers and dyers, creating fabrics of cotton and wool. These are transformed into carpets, stoles, scarves, and more - depending on the designer’s vision. Centering around the idea of community and home, they work unitedly to produce high-quality textiles.

Bhujodi is home to the illustrious Shamji Vankar Vishram Valji carries on the legacy of his father, Vankar Vishram Valji who was felicitated with the National Award in 1974 for his exemplary work in Dhabla weaving. Shamji bhai who is himself an innovative weaver and an early adopter of kala cotton, oversees Vankar Vishram Valji Weaving, a multigenerational craft initiative for weaving and dyeing of fabrics, shawls and stoles furnishings and durrie (rugs) in cotton and desi oon (indigenous wool) that employs around 90 families. Over the last 20 years, Shamji bhai has transformed the venture into a prosperous business with clients in India and abroad. His journey as a weaver and entrepreneur has brought recognition as master craftsman and the UNESCO Seal of Excellence and also is a chronicler of his family, Bhujodi village and the narrative of handloom weaving.

Brief outline of the talk:
During last years Selvedge World Fair, the Slow TV showed Shamji's craft initiative from dusk until dawn, following the daily cycle of their weaving process. This year, Shamji will speak to us about his expertise as a weaver and the owner of a successful weaving business.

Lily hope of Lily Hope, Alaska
Lily Hope is an artist, teacher, and a community facilitator. She intertwines indigenous techniques and spiritual teachings with traditionally sturdy artist communities, supporting and enthusing Chilkat and ravenstail weavers internationally