Ten Kings' Clothes

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Royal Danish Dress 1596 to 1863 By Katia Johansenyale, Yale University Press

This kind of weighty tome should be resting on a cushion at the Bodleian Library. Its is gargantuan, but the incredible research by author Katia Johansen is even more substantial. The Ten Kings of the title are the kings that ruled Denmark from 1596–1863, the counterparts of our monarchs from Queen Elizabeth I to Queen Victoria. Based on the remarkable costume collection held at Rosenborg Castle near Copenhagen since the 17th century, each piece has been photographed in detail to allow the sense that you are not just visiting the collection but have full study access. Johansen has intimate knowledge of each piece and its place within the collection and broader history shines throughout.

Until the early 19th century, beautiful garments and rich embroideries constituted a significant part of a royal collection. These pieces are all the more valuable now for their rarity, as even in royal households, it was common for pieces to be repurposed. Items such as the floor-length cardinal silk velvet robe belonging to King Frederick III c. 1630–40 display this intention with buttons with fasteneing loops rather than buttonholes so that it could be reversed or recut with ease.

Set within a historical context and accompanied where possible by contemporary portraits of the garments being worn. The stunning regalia of the state, formal wear for court, and military uniforms form the chronology of the collection. Still, there are also surprisingly intimate items such as a hand-knit red woollen scarf for King Frederick VII and his lace-up stays worn to support the monarch’s prodigious stomach.

Some of the highlights of the collection date to from the 17th century, a period with few surviving garments or textiles in any collection. The most striking example are the silk breeches and under-hose belonging to K ing Frederick III c. 1634 cut with slender lower legs to fit well under boots but loose and well gathered around the hips with drawstring waist redolent of trunk hose from the previous century. Yet, perhaps the most poignant piece is the fine cotton frock and pantalettes of Prince Fritz (Frederick VII) in a portrait of the lonely 4-year-old c. 1810. Once her affair with her music teacher was discovered, Fritz’s mother, Princess Charlotte, was banished from court, and he was forced to grow up without her. Charlotte’s only contact with her beloved son was a concession that she might be allowed to sew an outfit for him each year and, in return, receive a portrait of him wearing it. Her beautifully drawn thread embroidery of ivy leaves garlanding the frock she made for him eloquently reveals the pain of her loss.

Showing the history of each monarch’s reign through his costume Johansen provides new insights into their intimate lives. Even more significant is her insight into this remarkable and well-documented collection.

••• Sarah Jane Downing